Sunday, August 30, 2009

Singapore via San Francisco and Australia

So, it's been another 2 months since I last wrote and I keep getting myself into a position where there is so much to write that I can't even get started. Since I last wrote I've been to California, Australia, California, and back to Singapore. I saw a wild platypus, climbed a mountain, ate lots of good food, snorkled in the Great Barrier Reef, ziplined in the Australian rainforest, and sang opera in a rural Australian pub with 5 banjo players, 7 mandolins, 2 violins, and 3 guitars.

Now is the Singapore Hungry Ghost festival, and much like Chinese New Year, when I go out and walk around aimlessly alone in the city, I wander over to Chinatown and watch the incense burn and hawkers sell Singaporean food. Unfortunately, at this point to me, all hawker food tastes the same. I did eat a pastry today from a chinese bakery at Tanjong Pagar Plaza called a "wife cake." It didn't remind me of a wife, but then, I don't really have any frame of reference.

In order to make this entry manageable, I have once again decided to split it into bite-siize chunks, starting with the first half of my Australia trip.

Croc-infested beaches and farmers named Mick who compare possum sizes
I went to California in July and then flew to Sydney with Melanie, my sister, for her "graduation trip." She is now in her first week of her Freshman year in college and we went on a trip before her big move out to Ohio. We started in Sydney and then found our way to Palm Cove via Cairns in Queensland, and spent 5 days in the tropical north. Luckily we weren't there for deadly jellyfish season, but unfortunately we ended up wearing wet suits in the water because it was surprisingly cold. I was expecting Singapore-level tropical temperatures, but should have realized that there is pretty much no where more tropical on the face of the earth than Singapore.

One day we rented a car and I got to enjoy re-entering the world of driving...on the left, in a Ford Falcon (a rather nice car!). Driving in the North, especially after getting used to city traffic and public transport, was quite freeing - we never once hit a road with more than one lane on each side. We ended up driving as far north as the road is paved to Cape Tribulation, in Daintree National Park, where we had to take a river ferry on the car to get across the crocodile-infested waterway.

We encountered many beaches, most with mangroves, with large crocodile warnings - one with the warning posted right beyond a children's playground (to the people of Port Douglas - you may wish to post the warning in front of the swingset, and not past the point where children are expected to become dinner for the friendly band of beach crocs...). Melanie and I went zip-lining in the rainforest and then headed back to Palm Cove past cane fields and Aboriginal homelands.

On the way up to Cape Trib we stopped at the Mossman Gorge, home of sacred aboriginal art and a modern aboriginal reservation. Going there was beautiful in terms of scenery - the river had rocks that looked like enormous stones, and there were warnings posted everywhere about stinging trees - a terribly exotic concept until someone reminded me that "stinging nettles" are a common problem in the US.

The most interesting part of the experience was driving past the aboriginal houses and seeing the locals walking down the street. Having been to Australia a number of times, I'd never seen an aborigine other than in tourist spots in traditional clothing playing a digeridoo, so seeing a place that is still aboriginal land was quite a change. The architecture of the village was very similar to the Navajo reservation in Arizona, except in a totally different setting with a totally different group of people - in fact, a group of people who have so much in common, and yet are completely different, almost back to the beginning of human history. Yet, they both share a history of oppression and death brought on by explorers and conquerors from Europe, even until the last 100 years.

I am now off to watch a chick-flick at Vivocity with Shabnam, one of my roomies. But this week, the saga will continue....


Thursday, July 2, 2009

Lessons Abroad



It's been a long time since I've written. It's been a long time since I left the United States for the great unknown.
I'm so behind in my blogging that I can't possible catch up. I've flown 25,000km in the last 2 weeks. I went from California to Japan for 3 days, then 36 hours in Beijing (one of which was quarantined on the plane after a baby sneezed) and then flew for 15 hours to Sydney through Thailand. I stayed in Sydney for 4 days, and then returned to the tropical wasteland/paradise of Singapore.

In my 10 months since leaving America (during which I' ve returned twice), I have learned many important things about the world. Here are a few things that top the list:

1) The world is miraculously different and similar at the same time.
2) Don't leave your laundry out at night in Singapore, no matter how nice the weather seems, because the next morning you will be knocking at the door of your 5-story-down neighbors asking for your sheets that blew away during the monsoon.
3) Japan is waaay more interesting than popular culture gives it credit for. Some girls choose to walk around dressed like cats. Some girls choose to walk around dressed like maids. Some guys dress up like Fonzie and go to the major parks every weekend to dance to 50's music with very moosed hair. Japan has the best burgers in the world - they make you rich.
4) Living with people you like is the key to a happy home life.
5) Your family is always your family, even across the world, and even more when you're home.
6) Some things always change, and some things never change. Look at India, and Japan...
7) Australia has realllly good coffee. And you can live by the beach. And you can have good coffee by the beach...
8) Seeing Indonesia from your window does not qualify you to do foreign policy any more than seeing Russia from your window. However, taking a 45 minute ferry to the Indonesian beach, might qualify me for a cabinet position...at least I can speak a foreign language, unlike some people who tried to be vice president...
9) You can be surrounded by people and still feel completely alone.
10) The greatest thing you'll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return.

1) The world is miraculously different and similar at the same time.


Is it San Francisco with the tye-dye bug? No! It's Perth, Western Australia- the absolute other side of the world (9,150 miles or 14,726 km)

Why of course it must be the US with that image of President Obama...Or is it Ueno, Tokyo, Japan? (Hint: it's the latter...)

2) Don't leave your laundry out at night in Singapore, no matter how nice the weather seems, because the next morning you will be knocking at the door of your 5-story-down neighbors asking for your sheets that blew away during the monsoon.

There is no picture of my lost laundry. And, in fact, I was unable to get my sheets back when I discovered that the apartment where my sheet had blown was unocccupied. By the next monsoon it was gone. Littering sheets is probably as much a crime as littering streets in Singapore...

3) Japan is waaay more interesting than popular culture gives it credit for. Some girls choose to walk around dressed like cats. Some girls choose to walk around dressed like maids. Some guys dress up like Fonzie and go to the major parks every weekend to dance to 50's music with very moosed hair. Japan has the best burgers in the world - "they make you rich."
(According to the 'freshness burger' logo)

One of the many Japanese fonzies sets up his music in Yoyogi park in Ueno, Tokyo

Best burgers in the world! Shibuya, Tokyo, Japan

4) Living with people you like is the key to a happy home life.

The residents of 19 Cantonment Towers in Tanjong Pagar - Augustin Marie Noel du Payrat, Shabnam Faltenbacher & Augustin's cousine, Sophie, visiting from Paris

5) Your family is always your family, even across the world, and even more when you're home.


Melanie's high school graduation - "Students, you will ha
ve one partner in the world, and that partner will be the US government...Pay it well..." (the El Camino high school 'inspiring' commencement speech)

6) Some things always change and never change. Look at India.
The same mango season ripens as it does every year in Hyderabad, a city that has developed from a small Islamic kingdom to a center of international business in just a few years. Poor people still knock on car windows and tap water is still undrinkable. But Barista serves fresh Italian coffee to those who can afford it.

Japanese people still gather in the same garden in summer as they did in sakura season, as they have done for hundreds of years, to watch nature.


7) Australia has realllly good coffee. And you can live by the beach. And you can have good coffee by the beach...

Really good Australian beach after really good Australian coffee at Penguin Island Easter with the Hanslips outside of Perth, Western Australia

8) Seeing Indonesia from your window does not qualify you to do foreign policy any more than seeing Russia from your window. However, taking a 45 minute ferry to the Indonesian beach, should qualify me for a cabinet position...

Foreign policy qualification- Bintan, Indonesia

9) You can be surrounded by people and still feel completely alone.

Lost in Translation - Tokyo

10) The greatest thing you'll ever learn is just to love and be loved in return.

Me & Eric








Sunday, May 3, 2009

Mujhe Hindustan akar bahut accha lagaa

Just back in Singapore from a short 12 day skip over to India for work. Hit my normal haunt of Hyderabad, and stopped by Gurgaon on the way back to Singapore. I always forget how tiring it is just to exist in India - I haven't slept this well since I was there before. 

India never ceases to amaze me with its ability to change and stay the same at the same time. Tent encampments, people everywhere, water buffalo herds, brightly colored sarees, piles of rubble and garbage, and dusty, smokey air continue to define the scene in Hyderabad and Delhi, while development brings big changes to what is considered "normal" to have. One thing that always stays the same is that my friends are my favorite thing about India. 

It took me 20 minutes from the time I got off the plane in Hyderabad to the time I got in my car- a far cry from the hour wait at customs followed by the hour wait for baggage in the dirty old airport in Begumpet. There is a Spar now, the first real grocery store, and suddenly you can get a huge range of imported products that were never possible to get in Hyderabad before. Barista is now frequented more by Indians than ex-pats, and the growing middle class is flexing their spending power all over town. The development in Hyderabad over the last 2 years since I got there has been very apparent, with many changes for the better. Now the question is, how can the 318 million people without clean water benefit from these positive changes. Big question.

Alas, with an early morning flight back to Singapore, I am not equipped at the moment to contemplate much more, so I will instead lie and watch a thunder storm roll in.

A woman sweeps when dust is all around her from the hot winds in Delhi

Maryam! I remember when she was a "twinkle in the eye" :) Now she is walking! And not enjoying the curry too much- she sticks to roti. 

Me & Rupa

Choreographing a "Firang" Bollywood dance as a surprise for the team at their dinner. We were so good at being secret that we didn't even get a video of it!

Let the mango season begin! 

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Pics from Across the World

Sakura!

Enjoy Happy- Even Coke embraces the Engrish


Age is no reason not to embrace technology. Japanese people from 2-80 took pics of sakura with phones and digi cameras in parks across Tokyo

Engrish baby shower swag

One of the many people wearing masks in Japan. While it seems very uncomfortable, I wonder if Singapore would be less of a world flu hub if this practice was common here

Mt. Fuji from the hotel window in Tokyo - a luckily clear day

Pranksters (hazing or just fun?) entertain the masses during the pedestrian crossing section of a busy intersection in Shinjuku

Ladies in traditional kimonos send text messages under sakura trees

Typical downtown Tokyo intersection- looking at this pic, I can't even remember which intersection it is- Shibuya, Shinjuku, Akihabra, Ginza? So many lights across the city!

Typical Saturday in Ueno. First afternoon in Japan- welcome to the throngs!

Kamakura

Sakura wedding in Kamakura. The wedding party is enjoying a rickshaw ride. The contrast between tradition and modernity in Japan is one of the many fascinating juxtapositions that makes it so colorful.

Lanterns in sakura trees

First day of spring in the Luxembourg gardens in Paris

Friday Mass at Notre Dame de Paris

Sacre Coeur

A Gypsy begs on the steps of Sacre Coeur - some things don't change century after century

Sacre Jaguar
When in Paris, do as the Parisians do...eat, drink, and wear berets (perhaps it would have been more accurate to wear crazy trainers and skinny jeans...)

Couldn't resist just one pic of the classic

Friday, April 10, 2009

It has been a while, and while I have been gorging on pastries and shivering in warm coats across the world, my blog has been suffering from serious neglect.

I am writing from Perth, Western Australia, for the 3-day Good Friday weekend, and since I last wrote, I have been back from Paris and off to Malacca for 24 hours, and Japan for two weeks. I'm off to India next week for work, and in the meantime I'm hoping to go to a white sand beach in Malaysia for the weekend with some Aussies. I can't complain about my life being dull.

Now I am faced with the challenge of deciding how to start back up my blog when there is so much to write! The warm, azure Indian Ocean is calling me, so I can't stay on my computer too long. With that, let's see how much I can get through...

Little did I know when I was standing in line at La Duree in Paris that there would be a La Duree waiting for me in Ginza in Tokyo. Tokyo and Paris have quite a bit in common, actually. More than one would expect given the contrast between the modern lit-up skyline and manga/hello kitty/maid/goth fashion movements of Tokyo and the classic, historical architecture and haute-couture fashion of Paris.

While they seem quite different on the surface, Paris and Tokyo share many key features.

1) Amazing pastries. I expected to lose weight when I went to Tokyo! All these tales of blowfish and octopus pizza had me totally unprepared for the amazing plethora of tasty Japanese food an pastries! The selection of French-inspired pastries is everywhere, and I even had a conversation in French at a French bakery in Daikanyama, as I ordered Sakura macarons (cherry-blossom flavor). In addition to their french cuisine, Japan has amazingly good other food that I gorged on for 16 days. Teppanyaki, okonomiyaki, meiji-yaki, yaki-tori, soba, ramen, tempura, sashimi, sushi, gyoza, pepper lunch, freshness burger.... You'll never go hungry for top quality, yummy food in Paris or Tokyo.

2) The parks. Parisians and Japanese love their parks, and in spring they flock to them. Japan is just finishing up the hanami, or cherry-blossom viewing season, during which the parks are full of Japanese people taking in the view, while eating, drinking (a lot!), singing, wrestling, wearing costumes, and doing all sorts of other activities that seem appropriate when you are welcoming spring with a 40 of Asahi.

3) They love their tiny dogs. Both Paris and Tokyo have tons of beautiful gardens where people walk little tiny dogs in little tiny outfits. Dogs in hand-bags, dogs in stores, dogs prancing along the streets in couture...Paris and Tokyo had this covered long before Paris Hilton joined the scene.

4) Fashion, fashion, fashion. While Paris is famous for its couture houses, Tokyo is famous for its crazy, wild fashion. Ever wanted to dress like Little Bo-peep? No problem, "Innocent World" has the wardrobe for you....While Tokyo has a much more colorful fashion scene, both Paris and Tokyo have discerning populations who live for the most up to date couture out of Paris. Someone told me that Tokyo accounts for 80% of Cartier's profits. They know what they want, and they are used to having the money to buy it. I'm curious to see how the fashion houses fare with their Japanese market as the Japan economy continues to suffer.

There is much more to say about Tokyo- my hanami, my singing bathtub, buddhist sakura weddings. However, right now, a pavlova is calling my name...

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Across the World and Back

Paris was a holiday. I met up with a boy from California- it was half way between Singapore and California, which demonstrates to me just how far Singapore is from my family and friends.

On the way to Paris I flew over Afghanistan - it was strange to think that I was a few miles above the place that seems so far away from America. Indeed, it is so far away from America (culturally and geographically).

I stayed in the Latin Quarter and ate pastries for a week. Luckily I walked everywhere or I wouldn't have fit into any of my tiny Singaporean clothes. My favorite patisserie was Paul but I was rather devastated to discover that it is actually a chain (I even saw people carrying Paul bags in Tokyo!). Paul has an interesting story as a company, apparently it's owned by a family who used to have a patisserie, then moved into bread factories selling generally crappy grocery-store bread, and then they decided to return to their roots with patisseries who only serve top quality products. A grateful pastry-eating nation thanks them...

Despite the bad news that my favorite local patisserie could be found across Paris and apparently in Japan, Paul still had the best baguettes, caneles, and croque monsieur's in town, and I lucked out by staying near a Paul that was a full restaurant rather than just a patisserie. At one point a very distinguished man in what looked like a doctor's uniform arrived. The employees were suddenly on their best behavior. It appears the Paul doctor was in town to make sure each restaurant worked like a well-oiled machine. It was certainly a well-buttered machine....

Paris was chilly and wonderful, especially compared to the constant humidity of Singapore. I always love winter when the weather is cold enough that sitting inside a cafe and sipping hot chocolate is so appealing. Singapore certainly doesn't provide any desire for hot beverages, unless it's late afternoon in the office and the building techs have been messing with its A/C again leaving me and everyone else shivering under light shawls that we keep in our desks. Certainly a hot cappuccino to warm up after a crisp, sunny stroll in the Luxembourg Gardens made the A/C problems in my Singapore office building seem a world away (and indeed it was a world away!).

My favorite thing about Paris was that over the course of 9 days there, I started to feel like I knew the place. I'd been there before but stayed close to the Eiffel tower, in the maze of white buildings near the Champs Elysees, and I enjoyed wandering then, but it wasn't the same. The streets were quiet except for some tourists and haute couture shopping locals, and it didn't give the sense of Paris as a vibrant ancient city that you get in the medieval parts of town. Wandering around the Latin Quarter, St. Germaine, and Rive Gauche gave a little taste of the Paris the Parisians know. Students from the Sorbonne were everywhere, kebab stands were open all night, and come happy hour there was not a spot at any bar in a 5 mile radius. Ah, Parieeee...

After 9 days of eating and wandering, I headed to La Duree on the Champs Elysees to bring back a box of macarons for my French flatmate in Singapore. I'm quite sure that there isn't a more beautiful display of pastries anywhere in the world, and I enjoyed it for the hour and twenty minutes I waited in line for my box of macarons.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

The Four Faces of Kuala Lumpur

Last weekend I jumped on a 35 minute flight to Kuala Lumpur for a short weekend excursion to the capital of Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur is a fun and interesting microcosm of the diversity of Malaysia. From crooked cabbies to $8 cocktails, from Muslim calls to prayer in downtown to Hindu pilgrimages in craggy mountainside caves, from goats and wild monkeys in the streets to some of the world's tallest buildings- Malaysia has many sides.

Modern Kuala Lumpur


The Petronas Towers reflected in the top floor swimming pool of the "Skybar" at the Traders Hotel.
Kara, my traveling partner from Initech, and I at the Petronas Towers. Home to a huge free public water park, an enormous mosque, lush banyan trees, and a mall selling top designer lables from Hermes to Chanel.

Sunrise on the Petronas Towers. We never made it into the Skybridge between them because they only let 1400 people enter it a day, on a first come first serve basis. Doesn't make sense at all why they wouldn't just sell tickets all day on a rolling basis, like the Empire State building.

Enjoying the free public park in the middle of downtown.


Enjoying "cheap" cocktails (compaired to Singapore!)

Hindu Malaysia

A statue of the Hindu god of war, Lord Murugan, guards the Batu caves outside of Kuala Lumpur. We were lucky enough to visit one of the largest shrines outside of India, during the festival of Thaipusam. For this festival, thousands of Hindu pilgrims converge to perform Kavadi, a series of self-flagelation rituals that range from shaving their heads and carrying pots of milk up to the temple, to walking with hooks in their backs.

One pilgrim, followed by an entourage of helpers and on-lookers, rolls his way on the hot ground to the temple steps. Covered in sores from his long journey, the more pain he endures the more favor he hopes to gain.


A family of pilgrims rests at the top of the steps, their son with his head shaved as part of the ritual.

A family of pilgrims stands by a photo stand, set up to take pictures for people who can't afford cameras.


A pilgrim performs one of the most brutal kavadas - walking up to the temple with hooks in his bleeding back and an assistant to pull on the hooks to ensure as much pain as possible.

A teenage boy, crippled by polio, begs for money at the base of the temple. No one should have polio in the 21st century. Another reminder that as developed as downtown seems, we are still not in the developed world.

Muslim Malaysia




After some time enjoying the tropical humidity of the botanical garden bird park, Kara and I relax with a beer.